June 29-Anxiety

So I arrived back from Berlin at 8 in the morning. The flight is an hour late. Immigration takes another thirty minutes . I am very late.  I have to catch the Gautrain back (Sandton) near to the office where my Jeep is parked. Problem is this Jeep needs a registration paper my wife Sue informed me yesterday. I have to get to a police station and make a sworn  affidavit that I have lost my Jeep registration paper. Then off to the License Authorities to procure a  new paper. Without the new paper I cannot take the jeep out of the country and…

Tomorrow we leave on an eleven day family tour of Botswana. The tour is with my brother Marius and sister Estelle. The hotel kids from the Royal Hotel have not had  a holiday together for donkeys years. Planning for the tour commenced in October. Originally it would have been Marius, his middle daughter Linda , Estelle, hubby Erik and their two sons Carel and Rikus. Sue and I are the late joiners or “Gate Crashers”. Estelle and Erik have meticulously planned an extensive trip all around Botswana and everything has been pre-planned. We cannot miss this unique opportunity to bond, not to speak of the many photo opportunities!

I miss the train and have to wait another 20 minutes. Fortunately my loyal assistant Indira awaits me to get me to the office fast. I explain my predicament. I rush home to get the papers and then off to the Douglasdale police station. No queues, off to Randburg. I arrive there at 10:45! The door is closed! It is the end of the financial year. No new papers today. If only the flight was not delayed in London….

I go dejectedly on to our restaurant (DWEleven-13) to meet wife Sue and son Marthinus with daughter Ronelle and share the bad news. I decide to try the Post Office as an alternative. Ronelle phones other license departments. All to no avail!  Sue rushes home with Ronelle to try finding the papers again. What on earth happened to the damn papers? I say goodbye to Marthinus. He is leaving soon on the Ultimate Braaimaster and we will not see him again before we get back (if we leave), but that is another story!

After struggling for parking at two post offices it turns out that what I need is not possible. It is almost 2 o’ clock, I still need to collect my rented 600mm lens in Pretoria, pack and well what if we cannot find the papers? I phone Indira on the way to Pretoria;  What about a rental vehicle? I stop at Village Walk and find out both rental companies have no 4x4s available.

I phone Marius to tell him my predicament, he is busy and cannot talk. Sis Estelle suggests I try the Pretoria licensing department. Ronelle informs me they are closed as well. All this as I battle the traffic on my way to Outdoor Photo in Pretoria to collect the 600mm. -A big brute, not sure if I can handle it, but I want to try, cannot wait, but will I have a chance?

Indira phones, she has found a 4×4 at Avis. I ask if they can keep it for collection by 7pm- A light at the end of the tunnel. Sue phones, she has found papers for the Jeep, but the registration number is not the same. She is going shopping. When I arrive I have a  good look at the papers. I rack my memory, what happened here. The registration papers are clearly different but it is clearly the same car and the same owner. I vaguely think the other registration may have been the temporary plates. I decide we are OK. I tell Indira to keep the 4×4 in reserve and we may collect later on Saturday if we are blocked at the border. On that plan I decide it is a GO and start packing!

June 30 –Departure-Sidney strikes

We awake with a jolt at 5:45. Only got to bed after 11, having packed and sorted the photo equipment. Sue ask me what time we are meeting at Pretoria Petroport. I am confident it is 7 30 although a small voice says maybe it was 6:30! We load up and then I get call from Marius, where are you guys.! Got to move now, we leave just before 6 30.

The team eventually agree now to meet at Kranskop Wimpy outside Bella Bella where we enjoy a warm welcome over a typical enjoyable Wimpy breakfast. Everyone is fit and healthy and there is a quite an undertone of excitement. Lets get going. The Road to Vaalwater slows us down with roadworks but then we are clear and on the old road to Ellisras (now Lephalale). We pass Bulge Rivier and it brings back happy memories of thirty-six years ago when I met good wife Sue. Not time to go in and see the dam though. We need to get to the border and bury a demon!

We fill up at Lephale and head for the Stockpoort border. We hand in the papers for the cars and have a painless pass! We leave SA as we cross the narrow bridge. Let the adventure continue. We hit the first gravel road but  it is in excellent condition.

At Malapaye we stock up for the planned braai tonight. We hit Serowe and Lentswe lodge at 5 30. We are met by Jeremy who shows us to our rooms. Not great but adequate. Jeremy promises to have the fire going at 6 30. We get ready for the braai.

After a couple of beers and a bottles of wine, Marius introduces us to Sydney, 12 year old 38% proof of original SA brandy named after Sydney Back. The rest is shall we say history, headaches and all.  I have more details of Sydney, the team and trip map below. We have covered the first 590 km!

The ultimate one!

Sydney Back!  I love you Long time!

 Rich, golden hue. Delightful nose of rose, honey, honeysuckle, dried peach, apricot and range of nuts. Distinct sweet tobacco hints with tea and cinnamon. Smooth in the mouth, warming sensation, long genteel finish.

Accolades: Gold – International Wine & Spirits Challenge 2008
Blend Information: 100% Chenin Blanc
Characteristics: Type : Fortified
Food Suggestions: After a good meal in the company of close friends.
Technical Analysis: Alcohol: 40.0 %vol, Appellation: Coastal
Winemaker: Alicia Rechner

Day 1

From left to right, Marius, Linda, Erik, Estelle,Sue,Clive,Rikus and Carel

Top of Form

July 1: On the road to Nata

We move just after 6. It is a big day today as we hope to hit the pan. We have breakfast along the way. A few cows charge across the road as we leave. We are in Botswana. After Lekthlakane we go off-road the first time, slowing down progress  and soon hit the Makgadikgadi pans. The road varies between sand, stone and flat pans. We head for Kubu island. It is a wonderful experience to feel the silence on the granite outcrop covered by baobabs and a mystery pink barked deciduous tree. We enjoy a quiet hour exploring the vicinity.

No we have the hardest part of the pan to do after some smooth flat pan riding. The road is only two tracks with a grassy “middelmannetjie”. The tracks are sandy the “midelmannetjie” is high, the going is slow and arduous. We take over three hours for about 100km only. Total trip for the day is about 400km. Tough day! We arrive at comfortable accommodation at Nata Lodge and settle down to a good dinner. The curry was superb! We need an early night after last night.

Day 2

July 2: The Road to Kasane

We get on the road around 8 30. No birds at the bird sanctuary so we press on for Kasane. Sue and I turn around after 60km as she left her feather cushion behind. Realizing how much time we will lose we turn around and abandon the cushion. Sorry Sue. We have a hot dog braai using Sue’s disposable braai and arrive at Kasane on  the Chobe around 2pm. We book into the Old House on the banks of Chobe and arrange a boat trip at 3pm. We enjoy the wonderful animal and bird life from  a very close range as well as an “amurula” sunset. We have dinner at the Old house. The troops are into bed early, still nursing Sydney.

Amurala Sunset

Day 3

July 3: Kasane and Vic Falls

The rest of the team go across the Zim border and have a wonderful day at Vic falls while Sue and I have a lazy day in Kasane. We go and check out Pangolin Photo safaris and meet Guts Swanepoel and partner Kirsten. All set for tomorrow. We arrange a boat and have another wonderful boat safari, only the two if us. I have the 600m on the tripod. We spend almost an hour with a fish eagle sitting in the grass.

That evening we compare notes with the Vic Falls team. Dinner is again at Old House. We drink our own wine and then introduce “Baas Jack” afte we kill the last of Sydney. Some of us come second in this race , but we have a great party and long enough to usher in Estelle’s birthday. Some people start smoking and even some Cigars are floated…A good time was had by all and some had a very good time….complete with hangovers and headaches.

Fish eagle angling

July 4: Kasane, a birthday  and a man in the wilderness

This is Estelle’s birthday. We set off early to meet Guts and their Unimog, hoping first to see the Pel’s owl that was spotted near their house. We sadly fail but have a nice walk along the river. We are off into Chobe game reserve in the Unimog. We end up spotting a  leopard female and two cubs. We also see the last remains of an elephant with the vultures and marabou stork confirming the last rites. Some of us have a hard time and gets a midday snooze.

Marius meanwhile takes a wrong road in the game reserve and almost gets stuck and lost. Fortunately he and Linda makes it without getting terminally stuck. They survive the wilderness, but almost miss the photo safari.

The afternoon we all go the photo safari with Guts and his team. A good time was had by all and we hopefully have natured some photographers! Even “Mr 600” enjoyed it. Chobe is  blisss. The evening we hit the Chobe Game Lodge for a buffet dinner. A bit of low point, but what the heck amid all the fun who cares…

Leopard with cub!

July 5: On the road again, Caprivi, Epopo falls and Drotskys

We travel early the morning around 6 30 towards the border. We have a long 500km trip ahead through the Caprivi region. We cross the border at Ngoma. What lovely baobabs on the Botswana side! We have a good hearty breakfast at Katimo Mulimo. This is Marius’ day as he was here on border duty in the late seventies. He tells us about what it was like in those (bad) old days. We also pass the newly built Caprivi link HV DC line, built by Nampower and advised by my firm ( Fieldstone). We visit the very  low fall Epupo Falls and cross the border again at Mohembo. We buy some meat at Shakawa and carry on to our overnight spot at Drostkys Cabins on the banks of the Okavango in the panhandle. That evening we have a braai of note and we are introduced to the Master/Lord  of the High Cs (Pavarotti) by Marius. We sing along to the majestic La fille du régiment, Act 1: “Ah! mes amis, quel jour de fête!”by Donizetti . We have a late night listening to our favorite pop music and having some good wine. Marius introduces the Belvenny to our selection to great aplomb! We end up quite late but at least to good music.

Epopo Falls -No fall at all

July 6: Maun and flying with Eagles

Early morning we are up again and on the river at 8 am for an early morning boat ride –a great sunrise. We see giant kingfisher, fish eagle  and otter-All very pleasurable. Soon we hit the road again and also the worst road in Botswana-potholes galore. We eat on the run and get to Maun by 2 30 despite the bad roads.

We then re-arrange our flight schedule and at 4PM we take off in two Cessna 210s for a 45 minute   flight over the Moremi and swamps. A good time was had by all, but Sister Estelle brings back  a “present”in the paper bag  curtsey of a sudden dive. We take some photos and movies. Great fun!

The evening we have a good braai at Audi camp.  Another successful day. Audi is great choice to stay as the tented accommodation is very good and they throw in a good breakfast to boot!

Eagles over Moremi

July 7: On a mokoro in the swamps

Early morning after breakfast we are off on a two hour drive into the Moremo to the mokoro station. The road is slow and bumpy. We get to the station and without much ado we get into the four mokoros and off we go for about 90 minutes after which we walk for two hours and then have lunch.  Sue decided to sit this one out so I am on my own in the mokoro.  Our seats are quite wet as the mokoros leak a bit. Fortunately we do not sink and we only have wet pants to show. We see elephant, zebra, giraffe, egrets and fish eagle. Another wonderful day in nature and an evening braai again at Audi. All is well in paradise.

Mokoro in Moremi

July 8: Heading for Planet Baobab

The next day we head out after 10 30 towards Xai pan and Baines Baobabs. Baines painted the baobabs 150 years ago and apparently they look exactly the same now as then. We have a delightful lunch and then head off to Planet Baobab. This is a quint funky guest house with good food and a great feel in a forest of baobabs. Well worth the stop over. The bar takes you back to Johannesburg in the fifties with all the Drum pictures against the wall. That evening we shoot sunsets and star trails after a good dinner.  Erik and I polish a quiet bottle of good vino as we learn to shoot star trails.

Planet Baobab

July 9 : A day in the pan, art and all.

This ends up being the longest day as we leave around seven after breakfast. We first hit Greens’s baobabs, then Chapman’s seven sisters after which we hit the veterinary  fence  and a locked gate. The guard and his huts are empty. We meet with a lone ranger in a Toyota FJ. he whizzed passed us earlier but now he is low on fuel. Good luck buddy. No fuel in Gweta.   We have to retrace ours steps and reroute over Kubu island.  We eat on the run, but have time for a cricket game and a group photo. Along the way Sue and I stop for some art photos as well…

We arrive quite late at Rhino Khama and have a dinner serving the last rites on the Belvenny.

July 10: Heading for home, sadly

We have an early morning game drive hoping to see rhino, but nada! So we head for home. We painfully cross back into the Republic at Marins Drift. We have lunch at Kasane, reluctant to break the bond that has has kept us together for eleven blissfull days. We drive  back pondering the high points or High Cs. Here is my take:

1. Lentswe Lodge, Meeting Sydney.
2. Lekhubu Island
3. Old House blues-meeting Jack Daniels
4. Game Drive with leopards
5. Chobe River photo shoot
6. Drotskys Cabins
7. In the Moremi on a mokoro
8. Baines Boababs and Planet Baobab
9. A day in the pan with some art to follow

For the record, we covered 3 700km (wow) and taken probably about 5000 photos. Sue and Clive  took about 2800, many duds though!

Any other thoughts?

Definitely  to thank all tour members for their memorable contribution and to recommend the country Botswana, its people, wonderful scenery and incredible wild life to all prospective and returning visitors. Lets do it again!

In full cry!

All the worst for Sydney

Final Day